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A Visit From Laura Catena

June 29, 2010

What could possibly match Allessia Antinori’s visit from Tuscany? How about Laura Catena’s visit? Similar to the late Robert Mondavi from Napa, Piero Antinori from Italy and Nicolas Catena from Argentina head the great wine families of their countries. Nicolas’s son, Ernesto, runs Tikal,and Laura runs Luca—both recipients of outstanding scores from wine critics worldwide.

I brilliantly signed up for a cooking demonstration with Central Market chefs, with three wines from Luca presented by Laura Catena. It was part of Central Market’s week-long presentation of the food and wines of Argentina.

The first wine served was Luca Chardonnay 2007. Whoever thinks 14.5% alcohol is excessive just needs to taste this beauty. It has bright fruit flavors (70% malolactic fermentation) with lovely floral notes, minerality and richness . The balancing acidity is perfect. Try with any seafood or chicken dishes. $28

The second wine served was Luca Malbec 2008. As an aside, at the time of the 1855 Classification of Bordeaux Wines , a great percentage of the red grapes was Malbec. However, after the phylloxera epidemic in Europe in the late 1800s, the grafting onto disease-resistant rootstocks did not work well with Malbec, so the percentage of Malbec there was tremendously reduced. Prior to that, Malbec had been introduced to Argentina, and the vines are still on original rootstocks! As a second aside, I predicted in a futuristic 2003 article for “Houston Lifestyles and Homes”, that by 2010, Argentinian Malbecs would have taken their place among the world’s greatest reds! Well, here’s one of them. Lovely fruit and a hint of spice, along with class and breed. Try with grilled steak. $38

The last wine served was Luca “Nico” Malbec 2005. The soil in Mendoza is very dry—sand, rocks, limestone and clay. So soil selection is very important. This wine comes from two ancient vineyards that are so low in production (that happens to old, old vines, but if they are still healthy, the character imparted to the grapes can be unrivalled), that only 400 three-packs were produced. Fermented and aged n 100% new oak, which is perfectly integrated. Opulent black cherries with a hint of smoke combine with a hedonistic texture and weight. $124

Laura has just written a book about Argentina and its wines.  Baron Eric de Rothschild of Chateau Lafite-Rothschild has this to say about it: “Nobody knows more about the Argentinian wine business than Laura Catena (except maybe her father Nicolas).  This book will certainly be the Bible on this subject.  It is very welcome as few areas in the wine world have developed so rapidly and succesfully, from easily accessible wines to “grands vins”.  The name is “Vino Argentino–An Insider’s Guide to the Wines and Wine Country of Argentina”.  It is expected to be released in September/October, 2010 and will be published by Chronicle Books!

The Texas Two-Sip

December 12, 2009

I have long been a fan of tasting wines of different countries together—whether blind or not. The Robert Mondavi folks were the best at this. I remember in the late 70s, Michael Mondavi would serve his Pinot Noir Reserve alongside an excellent vintage of La Tache, and his Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve alongside Chateau Lafite-Rothschild. He probably did this only occasionally, and with wine writers and others in the trade, but it was very instructive, and it gave some important credibility to California wines at a time when many weren’t convinced of their value. As an aside, to return the favor some years later, when we hosted Isabel and Michael for dinner in Houston, for one course I served :

Robert Mondavi Pinot Noir Reserve 1985

Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 1985, and

Chateau Margaux 1985!

The Texas Department of Agriculture has just invited Texans to visit their site, www.gotexanwine.org, and find instructions on how to host a Texas Two-Sip, as well as wine pairings, tasting sheets and other materials. The suggested wines to taste together (the first listed are from Texas):

Brennan Vineyards Viognier vs. Yalumba Eden Valley Viognier from Australia

Haak Winery Blanc du Bois vs. Woodbridge Sauvignon Blanc from California

Becker Vineyards Syrah vs. Razor’s Edge Shiraz from South Australia

Llano Estacado Signature Melange vs. La Vieille Ferme Rouge from France

McPherson Cellars Sangiovese vs. Badia Coltibuono Chianti from Italy, and

Inwood Estates Cornelius (Tempranillo) vs. Muga Reserva Rioja from Spain

I’ll add another one: Fall Creek Meritus 2005 vs. B.V. Cabernet Sauvignon from California

You could even concentrate on one grape, for example, Syrah, by adding to the Syrahs above a Fess Parker Syrah from California and a Hermitage or Cote Rotie from France. And you could do it blind to learn a thing or two. Enjoy!

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Houstonians “Wowed” by Visit from 26th Generation Antinori

11-15-2009

Marchesi Antinori has been a family-owned wine producer in Tuscany since 1385! The current president, Piero Antinori, is one of the 5 most important wine personalities in the world. He is Tuscany’s version of Napa’s Robert Mondavi. He has been integral in shaping the modern Italian wine industry “by embracing the past while looking to the future.”

Piero’s daughtet Alessia, 26th generation Antinori and an accomplished winemaker in her own right, landed in Houston for a dinner and press luncheon in late October. A distinguished member of one of the great families of Europe, she could not have been more disarming and unpretentious in the presentation of her wines.

Antinori co-founded the super-Tuscan movement in the early ‘70s with his Tignanello, first produced in serious quantities in 1975. It was and still is approximately 80% native Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Tignanello’s big brother, the more expensive Solaia, is approximately 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Sangiovese. Both are among the top red wines in the world.

The wines I tasted with Alessia are great examples of the magic worked by the Antinori clan:

1—Bramito Castello della Sala 2008—Fermented in oak for a few months, 100% malolactic, and then aged in bottle for a few more months. Very attractive and with no further oak aging in barrel, tastes like some of the luscious-fruit, unoaked Chardonnays being made in California and Australia. $35

2—Antica Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2006—This is the 3rd vintage from Antinori’s Napa facility. It is named for Antinori and California (Antica). It displays rich, ripe fruit with black currants and black cherries, excellent structure, and has a lovely finish.

3—Guado Al Tasso Bolgheri 2006—From the currently “hot” Maremma area in Tuscany, this beauty is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Syrah. Refined and elegant, this offering is food-friendly plus, and has a rare balance of all components. The Guado, along with Tignanello and Solaia, pretty much quell the arguments I still hear about not “destroying” the native tastes and terroirs by using Cabernet Sauvignon, etc. $95
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Israeli Wines

10-27-2009

Only 20 years ago, Israel had 20 wineries. Today, there are 200. An interesting aspect here is that this is quite similar to the growth of Texas wineries over the last 20 years.

Just within the last several months, I have been made aware of the fact that a significant number of Israeli wines are in the very good to excellent range of quality. At a wonderful meal at Carmelo’s in Houston on June 15th, 4 wines were featured, and all were top notch.

Possibly the least of the 4 was the very good Pelter Sauvignon Blanc 2007. With the lovely, ripe fruit at its core, it could pass for a very good California, rather than New Zealand or Loire Valley Sauvignon.

The Pelter Trio 2006, a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc, had a medium body and good acidity to complement the subtle oak and cherry flavors. Both Pelter wines hail from the Golan Heights.

Next in line was the Tulip Mostly Shiraz 2006 (fantastic with grilled duck breast over vegetable risotto). This wine, from the Haifa area, was recently named one of the Top 10 Up-and-Coming producers in Israel. The Mostly Shiraz is 64% Shiraz, 15% each of Cabernet Franc and Merlot and 6% Petit Verdot. Darker in color than the Tulip Trio, and with more noticeable tannins, the wine is nevertheless ready to drink now. A hint of ripe plums and spice top off this well-balanced beauty.

Last and best is the Margolit Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 from the central part of the country. Chef Carmelo paired this stallion (redolent of currants, black berries and bountiful tender tannins) with his Piatto Forte–lamb chops with fresh mint and Cabernet reduction with rosemary potatoes and white asparagus. Margolit was the first real boutique in Israel, starting in 1989.

For more information about Israeli wines, contact Jim Veal, Director of Trade and Investment Promotion, Government of Israel Economic Office, 713-599-0290.

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Jefferson and Wine

10-20-2009

“I have lived temperately, eating little animal food. Vegetables constitute my principal diet. I double, however, the doctor’s glass and a half of wine, and even treble it with a friend.” Thomas Jefferson

The thing about this that is so interesting is that Jefferson’s doctor (and who knows how many others at the time) knew that about a glass and a half of wine a day was excellent for one’s health. I think this was forgotten at some point in time until the famous “60 Minutes” program, which put red wine back on the side of good health. I have long recommended up to two 6 ounce glasses of wine (at least one being red) for men and up to two 4 ounce glasses for women per day, the best time being as an accompaniment with dinner. Fudging by two or three ounces seems OK; however, most in the medical profession, even enophiles, do not look favorably on exceeding these amounts by much. Also, if one is not a drinker, it is not recommended that one start drinking for one’s health. Perhaps one of the two most important ingredients in red wine (and to a much smaller extent in white) is resveratrol, which is now available in pill form, some of which contain as much resveratrol as 100 glases of wine per pill. Until further studies are done with regard to such a high concentration (which, by the way, had a beneficial effect on the longevity and activity levels in worms), I’m not sure I could recommend this approach.

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Imbibe at Your Local Restaurant….

10-13-2009

When I consult for a restaurant, the first thing I do is run my finger up the inside of its wine glass, and if there is an inside “lip” at the top, I recommend that it change its wine glasses to ones without the inside “lip”. Yes, they don’t break in the dishwasher, but just figure out a way to deal with it. When the wine comes to your mouth, instead of going in, the “lip” causes it to spread out and go in improperly. After changing wine glasses, occasionally the restauranteur calls me and says, “Thanks, we don’t need you any more because so many of our customers think we have already changed the wine list!” OK with me–did my job.

Some of the best restaurants continue serving Cabernets, Malbecs, Merlots, Super-Tuscans and Shirazes out of a Burgundy “bowl”, even if it’s Riedel. Once again, just adding Bordeaux glasses (The Riedel Ouverture glass for restaurants–about a 10 to 12 ounce Bourdeaux-style glass at a whopping cost of about $5 a glass) will add to the restaurant’s elan and more importantly, to the appreciation from the customers when they order one of the above wine.

Lastly, as more and more people become aware of wine costs, restaurants which price in the stratosphere are going to find it more difficult to have repeat customers. I have come to the point that when I visit a new restaurant and the first thing I see is Dom Perignon at $350 (not that I would order it anyway) and a $20 cost Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay at $60 or more, I just get up and leave. It’s easy, at least in Houston, to find BYOB restaurants which charge between $2.50 and $7 corkage. I took a delicious $25 bottle of Dry Creek Estate Fume Blanc DCV3 2006 to one of these several nights ago and smiled as I paid the bill which included $2.50 corkage!